Growing up in Mexico, Ismael Popoca Aguilar learned that food was more than sustenance—it was identity and connection to the land. Now a professionally trained chef and dedicated board member here at The Wedge, he’s blending childhood nostalgia and years of restaurant experience to shine a light on the importance of indigenous foods. Through his work at North American Traditional Indigenous Food Systems (NATIFS), he’s helping others learn the value of food sovereignty. Read his story below, and try his recipe for Bison Three Sisters Stew using all indigenous ingredients! 

Can you tell us about where you’re from, and some of your earliest memories of food and cooking?

I was born and raised in Mexico, near Cuernavaca, a city surrounded by mountains and close to an old volcano called Popocatepetl. I think that my love for food came to me through my mom. She was a true foodie. She brought creativity to everything, especially her cooking. She always made delicious Mexican food from scratch, like mole verde, huazontles, and even humble gorditas. One of my earliest food memories is visiting my grandparents’ hometown. I can still taste the fresh tortilla my great-grandmother made on a clay comal, heated by dried corn stalks. Enjoying that simple tortilla with just a sprinkle of salt, I didn’t realize then how lucky I was to experience such a handmade treat. Years later, I visited my dad and sister in Mexico. I was invited to an Indigenous municipality in my home state, and there, I once again savored a fresh tortilla from a clay comal. This time, I truly took my time to appreciate every bite. The smell, texture, and flavor of this ancestral food remain vivid in my memory. It was only after I started working at NATIFS that I truly began to grasp the significance of ancestral foods and the concept of food sovereignty.

How have the different places you’ve lived influenced your approach to cooking and appreciation for ingredients?

My culinary education provided a foundation in traditional French and Mexican cuisines. However, it was my professional experiences in Canada and the USA that truly refined my skills and deepened my passion for fresh, seasonal, and clean ingredients. In Montreal, I had the privilege of working with an exceptional Italian chef who highlighted the significance of perfectly cultivated vegetables. It was there I discovered the exquisite taste of fresh anchovies, lightly coated in cornmeal and fried in olive oil. This experience taught me that good ingredients require minimal manipulation; sometimes, it’s best to allow their natural flavors to speak for themselves. Following that, I dedicated a decade to working at a local co-op in Seattle. This provided me with the opportunity to cook primarily with organic and seasonal ingredients, an experience that illuminated the importance of a healthy food system. That experience showed me the profound connection between our food, our well-being, and the vitality of our communities and environment.

How did you know you wanted to work in food, and specifically within a local food system?

My passion for food and cooking began at a young age. I have fond memories of visiting my aunt’s bustling restaurant in the town plaza, where I would prepare (and devour) my own smoothies and tortas. Growing up, a local food system was the norm; eating imported food from distant places was a rare event. Later through my professional culinary experience, I gained a deeper understanding of the importance of such a system. Now, I am fortunate to work with premium, locally sourced, and seasonal ingredients, crafting nutritious meals. I prioritize cooking with foods when they are in season, enjoying citrus in winter and cherries and blueberries in summer. My experiences have shown me that seasonal eating supports local farmers and leads to superior, healthier food.

What is NATIFS and what about its mission made you interested in working there?

At NATIFS, our mission revolves around promoting indigenous foodways, enhancing access to indigenous education, and facilitating access to indigenous foods. My primary interest lies in the intersection of food access and indigenous foodways. I have long been passionate about food, and we are continuously seeking innovative methods to share our wholesome food with everyone. Through this endeavor, I’ve come to understand that ensuring access to our food must be paired with education. It’s crucial that we learn to prepare foods that not only nourish our bodies but also foster healthy communities, recognizing the deep connection between a thriving community and its food. My role at NATIFS involves product and recipe development, where we create delicious recipes using native ingredients designed to appeal to diverse palates. Additionally, I work on the supply chain for heirloom native ingredients, including wild rice, Potawatomi corn, Tepary and Ayocote beans, and handmade tortillas crafted from corn sourced from the Ute Mountain foothills.

How is NATIFS restoring Indigenous Foodways, and in what ways can our wider community contribute to that mission?

NATIFS aims to foster awareness about the vital link between ancestral and local foods and the well-being and prosperity of our community. We disseminate this knowledge through events, publications, and newsletters, and by supporting Native and BIPOC chefs. We also partner with Indigenous producers, purchasing their products, ingredients, and services. We believe their success is our collective victory. The broader community can contribute to our mission by learning about food sovereignty and incorporating native foods and local ingredients into their daily diets.