This Week in Produce

By Mandy Catlette

Updated every Friday

Last Updated: March 12, 2010

Alert the nearest Robin and tell them to get to wingin' because it's spring in California! Sure, I did happen to see it recently with my own eyes and everything, but even if I hadn't I would still know, looking around the produce department this week. Colors in general have intensified, the quality of the tender stuff has gone up, and the prime indicator—prices have started to come down.

Leeks

The Leek is one crop that reflects the essence of spring and its quality improves a lot this time of year. Our leeks at the moment are beautiful—large, clean specimens with healthy green tops and tightly wound layers. Leeks are one of nature's most graceful efforts—they grow quickly, shooting up elegantly from just underneath the soil, layer after layer of concentric white and green spiraling upwards in a fountain of delicate oniony sweetness. When it comes to using them at home, of all the vegetables to chop, I think leeks are among the most fun. A clean chef's knife glides through them like butter and produces a sweet spring-like aroma, and at the very center there is usually a pale green, delicate sprout—which given to grow would grow up and out as the next green leaf. You can eat that sprout (I often do), it may impart the lively feeling of new beginnings, kind of like the opposite of eating the worm at the bottom of a tequila bottle. I think leeks really shine in soup—especially clear-brothed, simple ones that don't overpower their subtleties. Here's a tip for making soup stock, if you want to feel like a French chef—slice a leek in half down the middle (end to end, not round and round with root end intact) and float it on top of the pot. As it boils, it will separate and expand into a beautiful Fleur-de-lis. This tastes especially good when poaching chicken or shrimp, or cooking lentils or peas. Leeks are always a good contribution to general soup stock.

Sunburst Squash

Another vibrant spring item, Sunburst Squash, is really living up to its name of late. These squat little squash are shaped like a cartoon sunshine—or, maybe, a tiny spaceship. In other words, they are shaped like F-U-N. The only limit for using the Sunburst is your imagination—they are versatile and stand up to a number of preparations. You can cut them into wedges and roast them, slice them into rings and sauté them, grill them, toss them in soup, you can even eat them raw, cubed into salad. Sunburst squash has a mild, zucchini flavor and can be used in any way zucchini is used, except it'll be better, and more fun.

French Breakfast Radishes

Anybody who's ever tried their hand at gardening knows that one of the weirdest crops that you absolutely must grow is Radishes. Why? Because they mature to harvest in a mere month so it's as close to instant gratification as vegetable farming gets. I say weirdest because not that many people get truly enthusiastic about radishes—but the people that do—well, we'd all be happy to be counted in that group. People who really know and like good food like radishes, people who know how to appreciate the full spectrum of taste bud pleasure—not just the sweet, salty, and sour. Radishes are an unusual combo of sweet, hot and bitter that doesn't directly appeal to the typical American palate. In Mexico, many countries in Asia, Eastern Europe and and pockets of Western Europe (France I'm looking at you) they are a staple of the table, however. Their appeal can be summed up, I think, in the word "foil." As in, they are a foil for other flavors—a palate cleanser—a reset button for your sinuses. Thus I recommend eating our current stunning crop of bunched French Breakfast Radishes as a part of a delicious, simple meal of a rich creamy cheese, strong Rye Bread and something bitter like beer, if you drink it. In Mexico, it's used as a topping for tacos laden with rich, meaty fillings that have been stewed all day and it is very good this way, as well. Lastly, when fully cooked, radishes lose their bitterness and sweeten up—resembling a highly nuanced turnip in texture and flavor. Health-wise, radishes are great for this time of year. The mustard oil they contain is good at tonifying the sinuses, lungs and liver up after a winter of heavy, cooked food and indoor air.

Sunflower Sprouts

The springiest thing on our shelf is also locally grown this week—imagine that! Sunflower Sprouts are due a shout-out this time of year, they're too good not to mention at least once a year, even though they're always on our shelves. These cute cubes of sprouting sunflower seedlings are cheery, super green, and positively reek of fresh air and growth. They're delivered twice weekly from Jack and the Green Sprout of River Falls, Wisconsin. If you can keep yourself from snacking them all down right away (they have a sweet, nutty, fresh taste, and a springy, juicy texture), they are nice tossed onto salad or rolled up in sushi, and even take a tasty turn as a bean-sprout substitute in stir fries and pad Thai. Be warned: they are addictive. Addictively delicious and life-affirming!

Local Tomatoes

Green Bartless Pears

Honeycrisp Apples Return

Blueberries

Kiwi

Other locally grown fare, Living Waters Hydroponic Tomatoes, are back and tasting really good after the long tomato drought—winter, that is. These red stunners are vine-ripened in Wells, Minnesota, and you can tell the difference. Perfect texture, tons of flavor, and a color which will remind you that nature produces colors other than white, brown and gray. Enjoy!

It isn't really any domestic season for fruit just yet—not quite Mango season, not quite berry season—although both Strawberries and Mangoes have been getting steadily better this week. But it IS Argentinian Pear season—and so I recommend green Bartlett Pears. These have a melting texture that is as fine as spun sugar—and they're almost as sweet. The really nice thing is the flavor—it is perfumey and refreshing, like a sweet and gentle breeze of fresh air in a stuffy room. These are ripe and ready to go when blushing yellow and tender to the touch.

A bizarre return of the Honeycrisp Apple has left produce employees bewildered but pleased this week. Stored from last fall's Harvest, these Washington apples have lost nothing in the interceding months—they are sweet and tangy, with the same glacial-breakaway crunch as always. The flavor of these is, I think, heads above most Honeycrisp, even ones in the fall. So eat these for a retro "that is so last autumn!" kinda treat. Very delicious.

Fair-trade Chilean blueberries are spectacular—juicy and full of zip and sway. Although blueberries are a fall crop and everybody who has ever been to Minnesota's North shore during fall knows it, there is something decidedly spring in the flavor of these. Maybe it's because they're so darn good for you, they have a tonic quality.

Much like the aforementioned Sunflower Sprouts—another favorite that is here all year and never gets its day, Kiwi, gets its spotlight this week. We're bringing in bins of these tasty California-grown fruit and dropping the price so you can enjoy something special and different while we wait for spring fruits to really start up around here. Take advantage of this deal as Kiwi is a nutritional powerhouse; it is also lovely.

Local Potting Soil also in! From Cowsmo Compost of Wisconsin—bags of this potting soil blend are perfect for transplanting your houseplants, or beginning some seedlings inside for warmer days to come. Organic Seeds from High Mowing Seeds are also in—come take a look and start planning.